Friday, 22 March 2019

A bimble around Turville

A Kite’s eye view of the Chilterns would be a magnificent sight, soaring above the beechwoods, top of the food chain.  Hughes 'Hawk Roosting', no sophistry in this body, ‘I kill where I please because it's all mine.’ I settle for a quick spin to get the skull cinema going. Endorphins rush as I imagine the earth’s face upward for my inspection.  The plaintive cries of the circling Kite’s are rejoindered by the inimitable squawks of the countless pheasantry in the fields.  Bursting from hedges and strutting in fields with their feathered harem they are a sight to behold. Cocks proud in their plumage crow their guttural pride. Bred to be shot in the local estates this is the new economy of the area and they are lords of the manor. Their cocksure manner is ill found though as they are more akin to sitting ducks. There cannot be much sport in bagging such a tame bird.  They make for pleasant company though and enliven the combes and valleys of the Chilterns which always seem a bit empty and desolate in winter despite the apparent wealth of the area. There is a sense of isolation and hilly miles can be passed as if there is one secret, unknowable world within these charming valleys, guarded by hedges and security cameras. Or perhaps I am bonking and reaching maudlin capacity in need of a power bar. 

I was slightly concerned about my descending skills as I freewheeled from Ibstone. The valleys are steep and unforgiving and I didn't fancy the ride back. Beyond lay the Thames and this secret area was slowly offering up its jewels.  Someone knew something and Turville was a good place to begin.  A postcard village that can boast of more celebrity references than Love Island.  The Bull and Butcher was my primary research haven, finding a focus group over a pint of Brakspears.  I  had taken a few photos and wondered why they were familiar.  Ten minutes in the bar revealed a treasure trove of information that would keep the squirrels in beech nuts for a year.  





That'll be the Vicar of Dibley's cottage by the church... and another Midsomer Murder happened there.
Then the big reveal! 
Of course, the windmill ! I had just staggered up a ridiculous incline to this Cobstone Mill, home of Hayley Mills no less. Sure enough, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.  
Keep going... Day of the Triffids?
There was something else though, and they kept me guessing... I was thinking 'Went the Day Well' ...They didn't know what I was on about. 
You'm joking I bellowed in my mother's favourite Black Country drawl. Not really. She visibly recoils at this utterance. 
Goodnight Mr Tom ! I'd just been forced to watch it three times. I had to go and have a look at the village green to get my bearings and sure enough there it was with the flint walls of the Oxon cottages dressed wth wisteria and manicured to a tee. The epitome of rural safety, a safe haven for young Willie from the horror of the war and a vicious mother. I had to get the details from Isla, who is a mine of information about Little Werewold and William Beech. She could contest mastermind about the book and film. Isla even knew the name of the dog, Sammy if you are testing.  A Year 6 staple, the village is burnt into the retina of our youth of today, much like Lennie suffocating dogs in Californian sunshine is for the previous generation. There are no snakes swimming across ponds in the garden of Eden here though, only a picturesque spot drawing the crowds.  Rust coloured rooves and box hedges draw the eye toward the windmill on the horizon.  Hawthorn blossom and daffodils  in the churchyard suggested sheltered climes. Blackened creosote on barns signified the uniform style that is so quintessentially Chiltern.


Storm Freya approached so I set off uphill past a burst water main that had me wading knee deep. There was a ten mile detour on offer but I was on my last, very wet legs.  I hoped the pheasants were finding some shelter. Undefeated I wanted to eke the day out and there was just enough  time for a short walk from Ibstone, diving into the woods and the Worsley Estate looking for Paul Getty’s cricket pitch.  He has created a duplicate of the Oval and I was determined to find it. Even in Storm Freya it was quite an amazing apparition, a manicured lawn of international quality in the middle of the woods. I bet he hosts great celebrity ding dongs with this fine centrepiece ringing with the summer clink of Pimms on the lawn and the crunch of cucumber sandwiches. I could almost hear the crack of willow on leather above the approaching gale.

A bimble along the Phoenix Trail

Bumbling through red kite country again just off the M40 drag-strip to London, probably the dullest road in the land, I extricate myself and land in Thame.  I had been reading about disused railways and in my post hibernation bid to regain a modicum of fitness I was drawn to the flat straight paths which I could whizz my wizened limbs along.
Thame is a good stop off when heading South for a breakfast butty and a bimble round the bookshops. You know you have hit the home counties when you price up the charity offerings. £3 a book but they have some good titles in good nick and I picked up some nature writing which tend toward the confessional and morose but often enlighten.  I also found my favourite 501 jeans here which are now being patched so they can live again.  This time I ended up with more books about cycling in the Chilterns as a means of procrastinating about actually cycling in the hilly Chilterns and packed my panniers full of Scotch Eggs.  I snacked amongst the pollarded oaks looking for the ghosts of Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh in the stunning churchyard and rolled around the timbered houses on the side streets, a lazy warm up as the sun broke through and took the edge off the wind, and I don't mean the eggs. 



Further procrastination in a small museum brought some insight into the history of the town with its usual civil war struggle between factions leading to misery and ruin for feuding nobs.  I found these local crafty artworks which have inspired me to copy them wholesale at a later date and pass them off as my own ingenuity.








I could wait no longer and having risen at the crack of dawn to beat the traffic I realised I was wasting the day. Atrophying muscles sparked to life as I hit the trail out of quaint Thame. I love a straight track riding through history. This was part of the Wycombe railway and an extension built in 1862 took the line to Thame and eventually through to Oxford, enabling a languid route from Paddington to Oxford purpose made for bimblers looking for the slow train.  It later became a key part of the route to Birmingham but lost out to roads and a faster route via Princes Risborough after World War Two. It managed to survive until a few months before Beeching when they knew the game was up with annual losses of £35,000.  In 1991 Sustrans re-surfaced the track and commissioned furniture students to make 30 sculptures to mark the route.  





He gets a nice view of the Chiltern Hills. He does have a pole stuck up his arras though. 


Not sure about Eeyore though. He smelled a bit after playing with Pooh!




There is still steam to be seen on the route as the Chinnor and Princes Risborough railway runs across the trail as you leave Princes Risborough behind. Heritage trains run during summer months along one of the quaintest lines in England from the meticulously restored Chinnor station. A testament to the industry of retired middle England in the lee of the Chiltern ridge.  Everything manicured and kempt. Wot ho, Toot toot!

www.chinnorrailway.co.uk



The sculptures livened up the trail in the bleakness of Winter as I passed barren fields with an occasional Kite for company.  

It is a popular route and well used by runners and families with the odd windswept stockbroker puffing away looking for a personal Strava best. I don't think I was winning any awards but it got the wind back in my sails.



The scarp of the Chilterns was a constant companion looming ominously beyond my flat bed. I resolved to conquer the ridge another time and bent my wend back to Thame. It turned out to be just enough as the headwinds kicked in and a pint in the Spread Eagle beckoned, former roost of Evelyn Waugh and, like most places round here, site of a Midsomer Murder. I unsaddled with grace to cogitate upon writing my misery lit memoirs and planning some bad pebble based art.