Shiplake Church dates back to the 13th Century and commands a view across the Thames from a bluff above the river. Berks is left behind for Oxfordshire once more as the river wends toward Henley. Next door is the imposing Shiplake College with a majestic boathouse and a delusion of grandeur. Nigel Farage's latest campaign is to stop China buying up all the minor public schools on the quiet. I suppose he feels this is another silent 'invasion' rather than celebrating the aspirational commodity of an English gentleman's education to a broad nouveau riche international meritocracy. Selling the great British public school experience to those who can afford the finer things in life like buggery and buttered crumpets. I'd wager that a rich seam for UK economic growth would lie in the global appeal of just such a seat at the master's table. It certainly looks magnificent and at almost £12,000 a term it had a healthy glow of commercial success with a vast boathouse bordering a manicured 45 acre estate. Boasting of being 'inclusive, individual and inspirational' it counters the fact that exclusivity is a private school's raison d'etre along with getting rid of your kids. I imagine the river is a real draw for any aspiring Olympic rower and of course Media Studies for the gifted and talented. I'm only jealous and these beacons of an olde England hark to a Johnsonian golden age and are destined to spread the Downton Abbey vision of Great Britain across the globe. I pondered on the anachronism as I trod warily through the grounds which border the river.
The path borders the river until Shiplake Lock where a footpath takes you across a field and forces you to detour through the village centre past a branch line station and the inviting Baskerville Arms. Once again the river has been hidden from view by grand homes whose gardens spill onto the banks. As Kerouac argues after being forced away from a river by private
ownership, 'when a man is separated from his rivers waddya got?' Impressive homes appeal to diverse tastes from manorial to airy modern grand designs. A huge parrot like a mutation of a London parakeet steals food from a bird feeder and is angrily chased away by the lady of the manor. The novelty and vibrant colour that his presence adds has evidently worn thin as the rocks fly. The path leads you down main streets and ginnels for at least a mile until you rejoin the river at the site of the old Bolney Ferry crossing point and tread the pleasant stretch toward Henley.
Across the river the intriguingly named 'Happy Valley' catches the eye, guarded by a rock bridge made up of giant stones. It is the location of the most expensive residence in the UK. This ultimate country house was once coveted by Royals and now by oligarchs due to its half mile of riverfront and desirable location. Much tinkered with by owners it has memories of eccentric owners scattered amongst its well hidden combes; two golf courses, a stone circle nicked form Jersey, caves, tunnels, obelisks and a grotto adorn this private kingdom. A real Toad's Hall.
Visitors to Henley often get as far as Marsh Lock in their riverside ramble and the human traffic builds significantly. Its a stunning stretch of the river and the wooden causeway is iconic in midstream with furious, cacaphonous, white water tumbling through the lock. On this occasion globules of ice clung defiantly to willows enhancing the dramatic majesty. Lovers and dawdlers promenade past Mill Meadows and museums reminding visitors of the town's rich history of boating and its favourite sons from the 'Wind in the Willows' that evoke the pastoral Edwardian bliss of idling along the river bank. Kenneth Grahame grew up downstream in Cookham and the stories he was told as a child of Ratty, Mole and Badger, protecting Toad from the weasels and stoats in the Wild Wood, mirror the best of European folk tales. Generations of preparing the children of Berks and Oxon for the vicissitudes of life beyond the sleepy haven of the river.
'The Angel' pub stands by the iconic Henley Bridge which is crossed to gain the heights above which provide magnificent views of this iconic stretch of the river associated with the Henley Regatta. Footpaths lead across the hills to a pretty village of Aston allowing a loop back to Henley which is worth exploring.
Hambleden Lock is another spectacular control on the river's relentless journey. Narrow walkways cross the broad stretch as curious visitors stare plaintively into the eddies and white water.
Upriver the regatta course becomes clear as the river bends around an island in midstream. A handsome fishing lodge, adorned with a nude figure, is situated to gain the best view of this golden mile.
